I’d start by treating it as a stability and safety job, not just a cosmetic one. Move the furniture slightly and use a two-foot level or a phone level app to find the high and low points. Check both directions—front-to-back and side-to-side—and mark the spots that need lifting. On city pavement, the unevenness is often at paver joints, cracks, curbs, or tree-root lifts, so test the exact footprint rather than assuming the whole area is flat.
If the furniture has adjustable glides or leveling feet, use those first. Extend them gradually and recheck the level after each adjustment. If it doesn’t, add sturdy shims under the leg or frame—not just under a tiny foot. Rubber, composite, or marine-grade plastic shims work better outdoors than wood, which can swell or rot. Use wide pads under benches and heavy tables to spread the load and protect pavers. For a long-term fix, replace stacked shims with a proper leg extension or a small pedestal base.
Keep safety and access in mind. Don’t block drainage channels, curb ramps, tactile paving, fire lanes, or accessible routes. Recess shims so they don’t become trip hazards, and use anti-slip rubber pads where furniture might slide. For public or windy urban spaces, anchor the furniture or use weighted bases if allowed—check local rules first. Finally, sit, lean, and push the furniture to test it, then recheck after rain or temperature changes. The goal is stable, safe, unobtrusive furniture—not a perfectly level tabletop at the cost of a wobbly bench or a blocked walkway.